Thursday, June 5, 2014

Self Drafted Batwing Top




While I do have a pattern for this style top it is not necessary to use a pattern. It is just cut on the fold in the shape of half an oval with the lower edge not too rounded. once you look at a top that has been made or the pattern piece it is easy to understand. I certainly did not develop this style of top. I had the sales person at Joann's measure me from elbow to elbow with my arms outstretched to get the width of the upper edge across the shoulders. I cut this top with the shoulder edges on the fold side using 60 inch fabric. If you have a one way design or are worried about the stretch you can certainly open the fabric up and fold the length of the fabric having the selvages on either side. I am normally a stickler about the grainline but it doesn't seem to matter with this top. The fabric is an ITY from Joann's. I guessed at the neck and tried it over my head and cut a little more making the front a little lower than the back.

I used the rolled edge stitch on my serger and serged around the neck and outer edges. I marked the seams at the sides using my waist measurement plus 4 inches for ease. I divided that by 4 and marked from the center point . Top stitch these seams and you are done.
 This is  a little diagram of what the pattern piece should look like. I honestly don't even cut a paper pattern and just cut the fabric. You can see the shoulders are on the fold. The dotted line down the center is just for measurement purposes. I measure from this line to mark the stitching lines. If you don't have a serger or like me at times and just don't want to bother with changing the thread on the serger you can finish the edges with a narrow zig zag stitch if it is a knit. You can also do a narrow hem at the neck and outer edges.



Sunday, June 1, 2014

Vogue 8833

This is Vogue 8833 and the second time I have used this pattern. I think I would like one more in white for summer maybe.
I used a recycled sheet from Goodwill for the fabric. The full size sheet was enough for this blouse plus a pair of ruffled pants for my granddaughter.

The only changes I made to the pattern is for the ties. The pattern has really long ties that are sewn to the fronts. There is an opening in one side seam and the ties wrap around the waist and then tie. I find that by the time I wrap it around it just isn't as comfortable s I would like. I shortened the ties and sewed one to the front and the other in the side seam. I added ties on the inside to the opposing front and side seam to hold it together. I also changed the way the collar is sewn on. The pattern has you sew the facing on the front to the circles and then clip and press the facing to the inside sewing the collar on the circle. Then you hand stitch the collar closed. I sewed the collar on first then the facing turning it to the inside. It gives a nicer finish in my opinion.