Wednesday, March 26, 2014

Butterick 5815

I found this 100 % silk at Goodwill for $2.99. This is the first time I have used this pattern and was surprised whenI realized how the shoulders are cut. Instead of a regular shoulder seam the front overlaps the back. The sleeve is a 2 piece sleeve but I didn't have enough fabric so I redrafted the sleeve to a one piece sleeve.

Mc Calls 6571

These are 2 new knit tops for summer. I like the fit of this knit top since the cut of it gives some fitting it also gives a more slimming look.

New Look 6232-- Charcoal Gray Chambray

Pattern Review is currently having a fitted shirt contest which I joined. 

I decided to use New Look which I have used 3 times. It is a TNT pattern which I have made a couple of usual alterations to it that I usually make -- the narrow shoulder adjustment and remove some of the sleeve cap ease.  This narrow shoulder adjustment on this pattern is a little different since the pattern has a yoke. You can see a tutorial for narrow shoulder adjustment here.

 I also have learned to measure and remove the extra sleeve cap ease from the Big 4 patterns.  It is my understanding that you should only have about 1 1/2 inch ease in the sleevecap. It makes it so much easier to ease in the sleeves. I removed about 3/4 inch from the sleeve cap. I also shortened the sleeves as well as adding a tab and button to the sleeves to roll the sleeves up for summer.

I found this charcoal gray chambray at Walmart on clearance and thought it would make a good basic wardrobe addition. I also knew I had already made a blue chambray shirt with this same pattern for a sew along on a sewing group.

I failed to realize how much the 2 shirts would look the same until I was in the process of sewing. The difference is quite obvious when side by side though. I can see this shirt paired with white capris or white shorts this summer.

Monday, March 17, 2014

Narrow Shoulder Adjustment For A Shirt With A Yoke

After finding a tutorial on Pinterest for a narrow shoulder adjustment I realized it was an adjustment that I needed to make for my shoulders. However when I decided to use New Look 6232 the first time and it had a yoke I had to put my thinking cap on. It took me a little while to figure out who to make the adjustment but  I figured it out I think. I have used this pattern 3 times and the shoulders have fit well all 3 times . I decided to do a tutorial on it so that maybe it would save someone else the time it takes to think about it. You know we all rather spend our time sewing than thinking about the pattern alterations. 

Someone else may have a method that works better for you and if you do I would love to hear about it. I have been sewing many years and still learn new things all the time.

First, find the shoulder line on your yoke pattern piece. On the picture I have drawn a broken line where it should  be on this one. Cut the yoke pattern piece in half on this line.( Of course I haven't traced the whole shirt front and back -- just enough to do the tutorial. The pattern pieces would extend otherwise.)

Next , tape the front yoke piece to the shirt front pattern piece and the back yoke piece to the shirt back piece. Be careful to not overlap the pattern pieces. I use small pieces of tape because you will remove the tape later or cut through it.

Draw a parallel line from the top of the yoke pattern piece where you cut apart the pattern on the broken line you drew for the shoulder line. Be sure to keep the line parallel to the grain line so the shirt stays on grain. Also under the armhole at the shoulder seam draw a horizontal line to intersect with the parallel line you just drew.

Now, cutting on the horizontal and vertical lines stopping just before where the 2 lines intersect-- approx 1/4 inch.

Overlap at the shoulder seam 1/2 the amount you need to remove from the shoulder width. For me the total is 1/2 inch so I overlap 1/4 inch. Tape the overlap . Tape it again just below and just above where the yoke is taped to the shirt pattern pieces. Repeat for the back.

Now since doing this the "slit" below the armhole will pull up and leave an opening. Slide a piece of tissue underneath and tape in place. Repeat this for the back pattern piece.

Carefully remove the tape where the yoke has been taped to the front and back shirt pattern pieces. If you have trouble removing the tape just carefully cut through it. 

Finally, tape the yoke back together, again being careful to not overlap the edges.

If you are using a pattern without a yoke  and just  have a front and back you can use this same method you will just omit cutting the yoke apart and taping it to the front and back.

I would love to hear comments on this method or any other method someone uses. Thanks for stopping by.